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Arezzo
An ancient Etruscan town, Arezzo is now a busy place with a pleasant city centre full of shops and restaurants. It has a less touristy feel to it than many Italian cities in the region. The chief draw for visitors is the fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca in the apse of the Franciscan church (San Francesco of course!). Other attractions include the Piazza Grande, a small Piero fresco in the Duomo and the house of Giorgio Vasari, painter, architect and the author of “Lives of the Artists”, a who’s who of medieval and Renaissance artists. It was said that Vasari was a good writer, a reasonable architect and a mediocre painter. You can judge the last two for yourself if you look at the Loggia di Vasari in the Piazza Grande and then visit his house which is covered in his paintings. Arezzo also hosts a busy antiques market on the first Sunday of every month.
Things to see:
San Francesco
The church is home to a superb fresco cycle depicting The Story of the True Cross by Piero della Francesca. The story is very convoluted and it is made harder to follow because Piero has depicted parts of the story with parallel themes opposite each other (e.g. two battle scenes face each other across the apse). Visually it’s very pleasing, but it doesn’t help with the order of the narrative. The best way to appreciate the story is to read about it beforehand and then ask for the guide-sheet when you go in. The pantings are breathtaking but are also very popular. It’s good policy to ring before you go to Arezzo and reserve places; you will be given a time slot as numbers are strctly limited.
Telephone 0039 0575 352727 to reserve places, they speak English in the ticket office.
Duomo
At the far end of the Duomo on the left hand wall you can find another Piero della Francesca fresco depicting Mary Magdalene, the lights come on for about 30 seconds when you approach it.
Piazza Grande
The main square in Arezzo, the piazza has the arches of the Loggia di Vasari running along one side and the back of the Pieve di Santa Maria, a church with an impressive campanille (bell tower).
Casa di Giorgio Vasari
Even if you agree with the description of him as a mediocre painter, the extensive frescoes covering Vasari’s house from top to bottom definitely make it worth a visit. |